Today (Tuesday) was what many are calling the Day of Despair. It actually is the Day of Declaration celebrating modern Israel’s formation but for most of the Arab and Muslim States surrounding Israel who do not accept their right to exist and for those living in the Occupied Territory, this is a day of protest. We were scheduled to go to downtown Jerusalem and to some historical sites but there was some rioting and it was not safe. We could see the smoke from our bus on the way to the hotel and witnessed some teenagers being arrested for throwing rocks. If this was in Canada we would have to have a full inquiry into today’s events but here it seems like like just a normal part of the rhythm of life in the Middle East and people are still calmly going about their business - our guide simply shrugged it off and said that tomorrow it will be quiet.
Our day started out really peacefully - bobbing around in the Dead Sea, still in Jordan. There are hundreds of people coming here from all over Europe, Asia and the Middle East seeking a cure for all kinds of skin aliments in the rich salt and mineral laden water and mud. They also say it will make you look and feel 10 years younger so we too lathered up and rinsed off. The process certainly makes your skin tingle but as for a cure and age reduction - we’re still waiting. Once back in Israel our Jewish guide said the problem was that we went in on the eastern (Jordanian) side of the lake. On Thursday we take another dip near Masada so perhaps perhaps twice is the charm.
Our boarder crossing from Jordan to Israel went smoothly and we began the journey up to Jerusalem. As we approached the city we came through a tunnel and our guide got us to countdown. Once we got to 3-2-1 we emerged from the tunnel to a full panoramic view of the city as he said, “Welcome to Jerusalem the most beautiful, and important city in the world.” The bus broke out into applause and started to sing “O Jerusalem!” I am quite confident this has never happened our a tour bus coming into Toronto - perhaps someday.
Our day kind of took a turn for there - not for the better. Our new schedule had us going to Bethlehem for lunch and a visit to Manger Square and the Church of the Nativity. Located in the Palestinian section of the city, behind the wall, on this day especially the atmosphere felt tense and the place seemed crowded, angry and dirty. Our tour guide did not even come with us because he is a Jew and has to have special permission to travel here (I think it is more about the fact that he just didn’t want to be there). Once in Bethlehem the bus pulled over and dumped us out for lunch - which wasn’t that appetizing but we all ate out of obligation. Then came the bill - $30 US + drinks. Wow. Then we were told we could take our bus to the church but that the owners of the restaurant would arrange for a shuttle for us and we could wait for it in their gift shop - we were starting to feel a little set up. The longer the ladies lingered in the shop the longer it took the owners to find the shuttle buses - once our group had been fully gleaned the buses arrived and off we went to manger square.
Conflict and tension is so palipal this site were the peace was incarnated. Our new guide explained to us about the different churches that had been built above and around this sacred site over the centuries and those who cometite and claim space today.
Even in the day when Jesus was born it was a busy crowded place - far from the tranquile cresh scene that we put up in the living room every advent season. Being in the East Jeresalem (OT) the Israeli and Palestinian conflict is very real with solderies and check points. The situation gets even more complicatd by the presence of Chrisitians.
Entering into the church you begin to see the different additions that have occurred over the centuries. As we move from the basilica into the more holy area at the front of the church we enter into the area controlled/managed by the Orthodox church. There was a very serious group of Orthodox Christians ahead of us and a group of passionate Catholics behind us. Amy and another member of our group shared a innocent exchange and both laughed. BANG!!!! The orthadox preist sitting at a desk directly behind and above Amy slammed his hand down on the wood demanding silence and express huge anger and indigination. It may have been that we represented to him loud irrevenant westerns, he may have been trying to keep the atmoshere sacred or it might have been that he was just having a bad day. A few minutes later someone from our team asked rhe guide what era the very ornate, gody and seventyish (almost Elvis-like) lights and candle chandelars that hung throughout the church were from. Pastor Jake, complete dead pan suggested to a few of us that it was the “trudeau” era and he and Andrew laughted. Now thjose of you who know Andrew know that his laugh is not suble. The priest was now on his feet yelling at our guide, calling for the police and church security and now examining our clothing. Our guide begins to yell back at the preist - immediate Amy, Doug (who are both still smiling and so whst naive to what is happening ) are hulled out along with Wayne and Ernest (all three men seniors) and this gang are chastised for all wearing shorts that fall above the knee (we had not planned on visiting a holy place and this was the only time all week Amy had not wore capris) The church security guard appolgized to Amy but in order to reestablish peace she and the others were ushered by the police out of the church.
The arguement between the priest and guide ontinued. Shaken up some others wanted to leave too but we were trapped between groups. On lady whose husband had been taken away began to cry. Members of the group behind us also joined in the verbal condemnation of our group. While the wild four waited for us outside the rest of us went through a small doorway into the basement of the church where the birthplace of Christ is thought to have happened. These people who had just been arguing with us were now laying prostrate above the sacred place, kissing the spot and crying out to God. We were herded out of the area quickly and back up another set of stairs we then exited out into the Catholic area of the church and the door to the Orthodox area was close behind us. I know it was meant to prevent us from reentering (it had remained opened for all other groups) but its closing actually brought a sense of relief.
This new area felt much lighter. This is where Christmas from Bethlehem is broadcast from every year and in the basement is where the Vulgate bible was translated.
Soon we rejoined the Amy, Doug, Wayne and Earnest gang and we headed back to our bus through what felt like narrow, dangerous streets. As we left Bethlehem we went through a check point where Israelis soldiers came on to the bus with machine guns to check our identification and ironically I think to make us feel safe.
After we passed through te bus driver announced “welcome back to civilization”.. It did feel good to be back. I cannot imagine what it must be like to live your life behind the wall.
Rebels :)
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