Desert Wanderings

It’s hot today in the desert.  We are in Qumran - where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered.  What an incredible story and what an incredible community.  They are a great commandment people group - totally devoted to a life of solitude, hard work, the preservation of scripture and devotion to God.  They were convinced that the return of God was at hand and therefore they gave up everything, including family, moved into the desert to live in community.  Many speculate that John the Baptist was part of this order until the time of his public ministry.  Purification, ritual baths and a relentless pursuit of holiness where part of the rhythm of everyday life.  Its ironic that for a people who place such a high value on the used of water in relation to life and faith, there is next to no water around - annual rain fall is about 25 cm.  The amazing thing is that it comes all at once.  Sometimes it only rains for about 15 minutes a year.  And when 25 centimeter falls in fifteen minutes in a dry, hard, mountainous land the rush is devastating flash floods.  Our guide says that the water cascading down the mountains and rushing up the valleys, “makes Niagara Falls look like a dripping bathroom tap”.  He regularly uses incredible adjectives to describe all things Israel.  The best hyperbole was when he told us as we passed a farmers field full of tulips for export that tulips were native to Israel - I thought the Dutch might have an argument there but I didn’t bother taking up the cause.  Apparently Israel also invented cherry tomatoes and just about every other beautiful thing we enjoy in life.  They have the best fruits and vegetables, the most noble prize winners per capita, the best air force etc. etc.  The prideful descriptions are a bit amusing, a bit annoying and a bit inspiring.  As skeptical and at times only subtly patriotic Canadians it is good to be around people so dedicated to their country.  

One of the many caves where scrolls have been found.

Speaking of dedication - the scribes in the Qumran community so reverenced the name of God that before they would write it down when coping scripture they would take a ceremonial bath.  Then they would write the name.  Then take a bath again before continuing on with their work.     

The flash floods are powerful and dangerous but are also the only source of water this community has for the enter year.  So they have developed an incredible system of water conservation and preservation using cisterns and reservoirs.  These are not a primitive desert people.  The engineering and scientific understanding from 2000 years ago is incredible.  

When then travel further into the desert until we come to Masada were following the fall of Jerusalem the Jewish people made their last desperate stand agains the Romans in 73 AD.  This mountain fortress, built by Herod the Great is spectacular.  He built three palaces into the side of the mountain and surrounded them with bath houses, hanging gardens - a 20 acre paradise in the desert surrounded by massive fortifications and supported by an elaborate water collection and distribution system.  As impressive as the structures are (made possible only by having unlimited resources, an unlimited slave work force and unlimited ambition and paranoia) the epic siege and battle that took place here is the real story  culminating in the entire community choosing freedom over slavery, suicide over defeat.  It is overwhelming, tragic, and noble. Did I mention it is also really really hot - almost 40 degrees...in the blaring sun...on the top of a mountain...in the desert.  Wow.

The Masada fortress on top of the mountain from the bus.

That's the Dead Sea in the background - on top of Masada

The highlight of the day was lunch...really.  We actually were able to choose our own lunch from the food court at the base of Masada.  Where did we eat?  McDonald’s...in the desert of Masada.  It was awesome....really.  It was nice to have a taste of home, and we certainly ate with thoughts of our boys in our minds!!  Since this happened to be a non-Kosher McDonald's we could even have ice cream for dessert.  It was fun!!

yes, that says "Big New Yorker"...Andrew had the "Big Texas"!!

Amy and one of her gang members, Earnest...he is one of the 3 men that were kicked out of the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem...along with Amy.  They are now known as "Amy and the Gang"...we are vicious troublemakers :)

The days have been long with so much information to take in.  It was nice to go back to the hotel after such a hot, hot day and hang out by the roof top pool.  Everyday is full and busy!